THE BLADE | toledoblade.com
THURSDAY | JUNE 25, 2020 | PAGE 6
BILL OF FARE | BLADE RESTAURANT CRITIC
Half­ Time Pizza is both nos­tal­gic and new

Half Time Pizza is not Myles Pizza.

But it is not not Myles Pizza.

Bold, sa­vory, car­bon-rich spicy sauce; not a deep-dish pan-pizza but a well-done heavy crust with a car­toon­ish weight; it is high praise to say Half Time is the new Myles.

For any­one who walked into Myle’s at any­time dur­ing its 39 years an­chor­ing Bowl­ing Green State Univer­sity’s cam­pus, the smell will be in­stan­ta­neously recog­niz­able.

And so will the dense pie with its moun­tain range of cheese bury­ing the “top­pings” (16-inch pep­per­oni $19.50). And the crunchy Cheesy Gar­lic Bread (large $9) with a river of moz­za­rella de­fy­ing all sen­si­bil­ity by run­ning through its cen­ter. And the meat­ball sub (small $7, large $10) with its crack­led edges pressed flat. And all well-done by de­fault.

Half Time’s fla­vor is like a lit­tle time ma­chine to Myles in each bite.

The old Myles Pizza was an ex­tra cheese-stuffed col­lege leg­end that closed in 2016. And there is a new place in its lo­ca­tion at 516 E. Wooster Street called Pizza Pub 516 with a very sim­i­lar, fine pizza. Owner Chip Myles loved the place, but was sim­ply ready to live else­where and moved, with his orig­i­nal name and prod­uct, to Green­ville, S.C., where you can get it to­day if you wish to make the 10-hour drive.

But a man­ager for de­cades at Myles named Abe Val­ley opened Half Time Pizza in a con­verted house next to Ven­tura’s on far west Ban­croft St. in Jan­u­ary of this year — a tough time on the cal­en­dar to open any busi­ness, but this hearty pie al­ready has a hearty fol­low­ing be­cause its leg­end is built into the fab­ric of ex­is­tence in north­west Ohio.

On sev­eral trips, there were

lines for pick­ing up and the late high school/​early col­lege-aged staff hus­tled to barely keep up. And it is a new­ish place, and those em­ploy­ees only have the ex­pe­ri­ence level they have in the world, so ... some­times there is an air of con­fu­sion.

Just like col­lege!

But they are work­ing hard, and seem to be hav­ing fun. Also just like col­lege!

Half Time’s FB page winks at this phe­nom­e­non with a line say­ing, “We wel­come all com­pli­ments and sug­ges­tions, just don’t cuss at us ;)”

In this vein, we found out quite by ac­ci­dent there are glu­ten-free crust op­tions avail­able. The but­tery top­pings and salty car­a­mel­ized cheese ren­der it prac­ti­cally non-ex­is­tent, but it is there. And it was pretty good on a 9-inch Chicken and Pesto ($14.50).

A taco-style pizza called only “Mex­ico” (9-inch, $14.50) also de­lighted if you are look­ing to wan­der off the tra­di­tional path.

The “Big-Timer” is your clas­sic su­preme-style pizza and the 16-inch at $32 felt like it was enough to feed, con­ser­va­tively, 100 peo­ple. It was eas­ily the heavi­est pizza any of the din­ers had ever picked up in a box, and one had long ex­pe­ri­ence in Chi­cago.

Right on cue, a Chi­cago Style Shaved Beef Sub and the Ital­ian Sub each would hold their own in the Second City. And again, the large of each at $10 will over­feed two peo­ple. So will a small Tomato Cheese Bread with ba­con and feta added ($6). Half Time makes its ba­con in house and it made this ap­pe­tizer a dec­a­dent kind of open faced BLT with no “L.”

Just like Half Time Pizza, be­cause it is a “W.”

Con­tact Bill of Fare at

fare@to­le­doblade.com

A 9-inch "Big Timer" pizza with sausage, ground beef, pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, onion, green pepper and black olives from Half Time Pizza in West Toledo.
Cheesy Garlic Bread from Half Time Pizza in West Toledo.
on Main Street at the Docks.
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